Curious Vines

Curious Vines

Spotlight

Sarah Abbott

Sarah Abbott

Master of Wine, Director Swirl Wine Group, Co-founder of The Old Vine Conference, Committee Judge for IWSC, Writer, Judge, Speaker

A vocal advocate for women in the trade, actively supporting projects to promote diversity and empower the trade’s next generation of change-makers, Sarah started her journey in the wine trade in 1996, gaining experience across a number of disciplines from buying and business development, to marketing and commercial strategy.

Initially diving into the classics, Bordeaux, Burgundy and Barolo became her speciality, which led on to a deep-rooted appreciation for the new frontiers of wine. Today, Sarah is globally recognised for her work with some of the world’s most exciting emerging wine regions.

Sarah founded Swirl Wine Group in 2006, consulting on events, marketing and wine collections, as she continues to build her reputation as a preeminent judge, competition chair and communicator. A finalist in the Louis Roederer wine writing competition for her columns for timatkin.com, Sarah co-authored the Burgundy section of ‘The Wine Opus’, in 2010, an award-winning wine guide published by Dorling Kindersley.

What has been your biggest personal challenge to date?

“About five years ago, I became acutely aware of the risks of alcohol. A couple of people close to me, personally and professionally, became seriously ill with alcohol use disorder. I saw the hypocrisy and stigma that surrounded their illness, which only made their recovery harder. I saw my own complacency, and that of the industry I had devoted my career to. I felt torn, and I needed to find deeper meaning in my work. I have to work on projects that are rooted in culture, land, and humanity. I had to make my peace with the incorrigible plurality of alcohol, and wine. Wine can fulfil our yearning for hedonistic connection and shared meaning; but for some people, addiction brings isolation. Reconciling with this edge has given my work more meaning and purpose.”

How have you experienced women being supported within the industry?

“Over the past 30 years I’ve been lifted up by so many. Hilary Gibbs gave me my first job, rigorous training, and the now almost-mythical classroom of domaine-bottled Burgundy in which I learned my tasting ABCs. MWs Michael Palij, Fiona Morrison, and Sarah Marsh gave me the tough love to succeed in joining the Institute of Masters of Wine. Tim Atkin MW encouraged me to write and present, and brought me into the judging circuit.

There are countless more. I don’t think that it’s necessary for someone to think “I am supporting you because you’re a woman” for their support to ‘count’ as affirmative. That’s my individual experience, and I’m aware that I’ve been privileged in being able to access that. Systemically, our industry is complacent and has inadequate talent development and inclusion strategies. Jane Anson’s Bordeaux Mentor Week shows transformative leadership, and the intersection of diversity. The Gerard Basset Foundation is doing the same.

Bigger than wine, we’re in a reactionary push-back against gender, reproductive, sexuality, race and class rights. Acquiescing to this contraction costs us spiritually, but also economically. I learn and am supported by many younger wine professionals. Figures like Aleesha Hansel, Fikayo Ifaturoti, Hannah Crosbie, Honey Spencer and Sunny Hodge are expanding wine culture with wit, flair and authenticity. Feminist allies such as Donald Edwards, Merlin Ramos, and Jan Konetzki are contributing to a more resilient and diverse industry.”

What is exciting in wine for you at the moment?

“The new hedonism of aesthetics and craft that is touching wine. The ingenuity and resilience of our industry in the face of climate change, Brexit, Covid, obtuse duty, and the neo-temperance movement. Leading The Old Vine Conference has taught me that farming is culture, and the power of that is thrilling. The breaking of the old canon of where great wine can come from. I’ve seen this in my work with Georgian wine, but it’s far bigger than that. I’m excited by how the rise of no and lo is fostering a deeper consideration of the role of alcohol in our society, and helping us to normalise discussions about mindful consumption.”

Who would you like to nominate for the next Curious Vines Spotlight?

Belinda Stone, who, as one of four directors, is responsible for running The Old Vine Conference. Belinda is one of the most dynamic, imaginative and positive marketers I know. Under her leadership, the organisation has grown to more than 70 members in less than four years. Belinda led the organisation of our first international conference in California in November. She has a rare talent for both diligent detail and inspiring concepts and her executive capacity is just incredible. She’s a guardian of quality in everything she does. And she’s a kind, encouraging and compassionate colleague.”

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